唐古拉山镇,海拔超过4500米,是青海格尔木市下辖的一个镇,位于青海省西南端,号称万里长江第一镇,属于格尔木的一块飞地。青藏铁路在此也设有火车站。我和徐老师作为志愿者来到这个长江源保护站,并进行人类学方面的考察,我们将在这里逗留几天。
Situated at an altitude of over 4,500 meters, Tanggula Town is an enclave of Golmud City in Qinghai Province. Known as the “First Town along the Yangtze River,” it also hosts a station on the Qinghai-Tibet Railway. Professor Xu and I traveled here to conduct anthropological fieldwork. Following our investigation of Jiuzhaigou Valley two months prior, this marked my first experience as a student anthropologist in the hinterland of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. During our stay, we also served as volunteers for several days at the Yangtze River Source Ecological Protection Station.
来到这里终于感受到了长江源之雄伟,青藏铁路以及青藏公路均架于沱沱河之上,每天晚上9点钟,这里的太阳还没有下山,夕阳之下,火车沿着铁路从沱沱河缓缓驶过,构成一幅极为美妙的画卷。
I finally grasped the true magnificence of the Yangtze River here, where the Qinghai-Tibet Railway and Highway both span the Tuotuo River and the sun lingers until 9 p.m. As the train moves slowly along the tracks, it creates a stunning silhouette against the sunset.
在草原上,因为视野极为广阔,有时甚至让你在距离判断上产生错觉。站在沱沱河边看对岸,牧民的帐篷清晰可见,我以为河宽也就两三百米,于是准备让无人机飞到对岸。然而,最远飞行500米的无人机在飞到河的正上方时便无法再前进,提示“已达最大飞行距离”。我望向远处架设青藏铁路的桥墩,数了数,有三十多个,粗略估算了下,河宽至少1000米。后来保护站的工作人员土旦旦巴跟我说,河宽差不多有1500米。不过,下午就发生了一件不幸的事,来自另外一个团队的一个大哥,在飞无人机到河上空时,无人机失控,“炸机”掉河里了。我们都开玩笑说他要去上海黄浦江去打捞他的飞行器。
On the plateau, the vast horizon makes it incredibly easy to misjudge distances. For example, standing by the Tuotuo River, I could clearly see a herdsman’s tent on the opposite bank. I was under the illusion that the river was only two or three hundred meters wide, so I launched my drone to fly over to it. However, the drone—which has a range limit of 500 meters—hovered mid-river and refused to go further, flashing the “Maximum Distance Reached” warning on my iPad.
Realizing my error, I counted the piers of the railway bridge in the distance. There were more than 30, leading me to estimate the river was at least a kilometer wide. Tudan Danba later confirmed that the width is actually closer to 1.5 kilometers.
A river this wide can be unforgiving. That afternoon, a drone pilot from another team lost control of his aircraft; it crashed straight into the water and vanished instantly. We joked that he would have to travel all the way to the Huangpu River in Shanghai to salvage it.
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